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HKC Expedition 04: April 4 – 27, 2025
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“India is a symphony of contrasts, a harmonious cacophony where ancient traditions and modern aspirations collide, leaving the observer in a delightful, if sometimes bewildered, state of wonder.”
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Introduction
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Twenty-four days, roughly 4000 kilometres on the open road, and the vibrant heart of southern India – this expedition was an unforgettable odyssey. Our open-ended itinerary unfolded like a living map, leading us not only to the awe-inspiring grandeur of ancient temples, where centuries of devotion resonated in stone, but also to surprising and enriching dialogues with universities and cutting-edge research centers. Interwoven with these spiritual and intellectual pursuits were explorations of numerous civilizational sites, historical forts, and monuments, each whispering tales of bygone eras and offering invaluable glimpses into India’s rich, ancient past. Our journey also took us to impactful NGOs, showcasing the nation’s contemporary efforts in social welfare.
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(L) Expedition route (Note: Map letters don’t indicate place order) (R) Part 1: Covered in this blog.
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The expedition was uniquely coloured by the presence of European friends, experiencing India for the very first time. Their fresh perspectives enlivened the mundane, providing new insights into our traditions and practices. A profound moment that anchored our spiritual explorations was the deeply moving darshan of the Shankaracharya of Sringeri, a pivotal encounter with the very embodiment of spiritual wisdom in Hinduism.
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The expedition was organised under the auspices of the Ocean Philanthropic Centre (OPC) as part of the Health – Knowledge – Culture (HKC) initiative. The focus of OPC is to bridge gaps in knowledge on health issues by providing accessible and relevant information to diverse communities globally. Through innovative programs and global expeditions, including the HKC Expeditions, OPC aims to bring health knowledge and cultural enrichment to remote and underserved regions. This expedition forms the vital basis for more ambitious future endeavours. The driving force behind the vision is Lt Cdr Vikram Naik, an NDA alumnus who joined the Navy, becoming one of the pioneer deep-sea divers). He left the service early and went on to establish himself in the shipping industry.
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Day 1 | 4 April: Auroville – Seeds of a New Dawn
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Auroville/Puducherry
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Our adventure began on April 4th, 2025, as Vikram Naik and I met at Puducherry Airport. Awaiting us was the open road to Auroville, a universal township dedicated to human unity. After settling into our accommodation, we met an incredible trio: Heidi (84), Patrick (81), and Eric (50), all dedicated French supporters of The Mother, Auroville’s founder. Each shared adrenaline-raising stories of their decades-long dedication to this unique experiment in conscious living.
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Vikram’s chance encounter with Eric in 2023 had forged this connection, and hearing Heidi and Patrick recount their epic overland hitchhiking journey from France to India five decades ago was truly inspiring. Heidi, a lively 26-year-old air hostess, and Patrick, who partly financed his travels by donating blood after time in foreign prisons, were both dedicated to their focus on India. Their enduring commitment to building the Ashram and Auroville, utilizing whatever skills they possessed, was profoundly appealing. We had a wonderful evening at their forest home, enjoying wine and conversation, followed by a nice Korean dinner in Auroville, where we discussed their lives devoted to a shared vision.
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Day 2 | 5 April: Insights from Auroville and Beyond
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Our second day, April 5th, brought more enriching encounters, underscoring the intellectual and cultural diversity that defines modern India.
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Visit to the Tibetan Pavilion: We met Claude Arpi, an 80-year-old French Tibetologist and expert on Tibet, whose dedication helped create the Tibetan Pavilion in Auroville. Indisposed, he sent us to the Pavilion, where Kalsang, a Tibetan woman who crossed into India as a child, guided us. Her vast knowledge brought the Pavilion’s displays and paintings to life, showcasing Tibetan culture and the strength of a people in exile.
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Kalsang explains the numerous exhibits in the Pavilion
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Conversation with Francois Gautier: Later, we met French journalist Francois Gautier and his wife, Namrita, at their home. Having made India his home, Gautier has written extensively on the country. He emphasised his role in founding the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Museum of Indian History in Pune, which focuses on lesser-known Indian heroes and the historical persecution of Hindus, including the Goa Inquisition. His singular dedication to preserving this often-overlooked history emphasises the need for accurate historical narratives.
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That evening, Jean Charles and Svanhide, two French civil engineers from Switzerland on their first visit to India, arrived, bringing fresh perspectives to the journey. Prasad Rane flew in from Mumbai, completing the team.
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HKC Baton Change at Pondy Yacht Club: The HKC baton exchange ceremony took place at the Pondy Yacht Club in the late afternoon, aboard the sailboat Tarak. It was a pleasure to meet Filio and Anjali, who run the club. Coincidentally, we witnessed the return of a combined sailing expedition of the RMYC, Coast Guard, and NCC from Sri Lanka, their Seabirds gracefully sailing into Pondy harbour. We interacted with the team and their leader, Captain Vivek Shanbag (RMYC), a commercial airline pilot.
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Homage at Sri Aurobindo Ashram: In the evening, we honored Sri Aurobindo and The Mother at their Samadhi in the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Founded in 1926, the Ashram is home to a large, diverse community. Sri Aurobindo’s philosophy of Integral Yoga, which aims to liberate consciousness and transform human nature, is central here. The serene, tree-shaded courtyard features the white marble shrine where Sri Aurobindo, who passed away in 1950, and The Mother, who died in 1973, are buried. The calm atmosphere around the Samadhi provided a serene escape from the day’s hectic activities.
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Day 3 | 6 April: Art, Spirituality, and Serendipity
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April 6th started with a serendipitous encounter, a recurring theme of this expedition that suggested a greater design at play. Vikram reconnected with Gautam Malakar, editor of “Mother India,” the Sri Aurobindo Ashram journal. Gautam’s research on Sri Aurobindo highlighted his often-overlooked support for the Allied forces in World War II.
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Art Studio Visit: Our next stop was the Art Studio run by Eric for local village children. It was an eye-opening lesson in fostering children’s freedom of expression. Witnessing their uninhibited creativity, free from conventional constraints, highlighted the importance of nurturing intrinsic human potential for holistic well-being and education.
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Tiruvannamalai
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On the Road to Tiruvannamalai: Our expedition began its onward journey as Stella, a medical student from Holland, joined our diverse group of six – three Europeans and three Indians. Our first destination was Tiruvannamalai, a town famed for its spiritual significance.
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Sri Ramana Maharishi’s Ashram: We arrived at the base of the sacred Arunachala hill to visit Sri Ramana Maharishi’s Ashram. He settled here in 1896, aged just 16, and lived in Tiruvannamalai until his liberation in 1950. A saint popular in the West, his teachings focused on self-inquiry and the key question, “Who am I?” While climbing Arunachala Mountain to reach the Maharishi’s meditation cave, we had a “divine intervention” in the form of David Godman, a well-known commentator on the Maharishi’s teachings and a popular YouTuber. He graciously spent time to interact with us, his presence a living link to Maharishi’s enduring legacy.
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(Above) The gopurams seen at twilight (Below) The massive Nandi on his eternal watch
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Arunachalesvara Temple, a sacred Shaivite site, is linked to the element of fire (Agni) and is one of the Pancha Bhuta Sthalas. Built by the Chola kings in the 9th century CE, its origins are mentioned in ancient scriptures. The sacred Arunachala, the red mountain behind the temple, is itself considered a lingam. By the time we departed for Chidambaram, it was late evening. We found basic lodging in a small town along the highway, and our nighttime caretaker, a computer science student working nights to pay for his education, was very efficient. He was the personification that reflects the resilience and ambition of India’s youth and their modern aspirations.
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Intricate sculptures adorn the temple interiors
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Day 4 | 7 April: Marine Science, Cosmic Dance & Chola Grandeur
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On April 7th, we explored aspects of marine science and then focused on India’s blend of ancient knowledge and modern architecture.
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Chidambaram
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Centre of Advanced Study (CAS) in Marine Biology: Our day started at the Centre of Advanced Study (CAS) in Marine Biology, a well-known institute at Annamalai University, located by the sea in Parangipettai. Its access to various biotopes such as estuaries, mangroves, backwaters, and coastal waters makes it ideal for studying marine ecosystems. Dr. P. Soundarapandian, Director & Dean, graciously arranged an engaging interaction with faculty and research scholars. Vikram’s briefing engaged the audience and sparked a lively Q&A session, showcasing the curiosity of India’s scientific community.
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Nataraja Temple, Chidambaram – The Cosmic Ether: We then went to the Nataraja Temple in the centre of Chidambaram. This is one of the five holiest Shiva temples, representing akasha (ether). The historic temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva Nataraja and Lord Govindaraja Perumal, gets its name from the Sanskrit words “chit” (consciousness) and “ambalam” (stage). The chidakasam symbolizes supreme bliss, and Nataraja’s aananda natanam (dance of bliss) is its symbolic representation. Uniquely, it’s one of the few temples housing both Shaivite and Vaishnavite deities in a common inner courtyard.
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The Ananda Tandava (Dance of Bliss) posture of Shiva is globally recognized for its profound symbolism, encapsulating philosophical depth.
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- The demon beneath Nataraja’s feet represents the triumph over ignorance.
- Fire in His hand represents the destruction of evil.
- The raised hand (Abhaya or Pataka mudra) symbolizes His role as saviour.
- The arc of fire (Thiruvashi or Prabhavati) encircling the deity signifies the cosmos and Earth’s perpetual motion.
- The drum in His hand denotes the origin of life forms.
- The lotus pedestal symbolizes Om, the sound of the universe.
- His right, left, and third eyes signify the sun, moon, and fire/knowledge.
- His contrasting earrings (makara kundalam and sthri kundalam) signify the union of male and female.
- The crescent moon in His hair represents benevolence and beauty.
- The flowing Ganges through His matted hair signifies the eternity of life.
- The dreading of His hair and drape signifies the force of His dance.
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Offering fit for the Gods (L) A lotus flower adorns the roof (R) Lotus flower offering to Shiva
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Temples were not just places of worship and spirituality, but also centres of education and the fine arts. The four panels on the gopuram’s inner walls show 108 sculptures depicting the 108 karanas, or dance poses, from the ancient Indian text, the Natya Shastra. Karanas are the essential elements of classical Indian dance, especially Bharatanatyam, and are fittingly found in the temple dedicated to Nataraja, the King of Dance
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Darasuram
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Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram: A UNESCO Masterpiece: From Chidambaram, we journeyed to Darasuram, near Kumbakonam. The 12th-century CE Airavateswara Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage monument, is a true storehouse of art and architecture. Famous for its detailed stone carvings, ornate pillars, and intricately sculpted walls, it exemplifies Chola art and engineering, showcasing India’s ancient achievements.
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(L & R) Roof panels narrate stories from the epics (C) The mandapa is depicted as a chariot, being pulled by horses. This predates the more famous similar depiction at the Konarak Sun Temple by about two centuries
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Exquisitely carved sculptures (L) Kanappa (C) Ganga (R) Saraswati
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Thanjavur
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Brihadeeswara Temple, Thanjavur – A Chola Wonder: Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, formerly Tanjore, is an architectural wonder from the Chola period. Our day ended exploring this city, rich in ancient engineering marvels. The region is a key hub for South Indian religion, art, and architecture, featuring the Great Living Chola Temples, which are also UNESCO World Heritage Sites, located in the fertile Kaveri River delta, known as the “rice bowl of Tamil Nadu.” Thanjavur’s prominence grew as a Chola capital, later ruled by various dynasties, each of whom contributed to its rich heritage.
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The gopuram with the monolithic 80-ton capstone on top of the shikhara (Above & Below)
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The centrepiece is the Brihadeeswara Temple, described by historian Percy Brown as “a landmark in the evolution of building art in South India.” Constructed by Chola emperor Rajaraja I from 1003 to 1010 CE, it’s remarkable that this massive structure was finished in only seven years. Constructed entirely from granite, its 16-story vimana (tower) soars to 208 feet. The 80-ton shikhara (cupolic dome) rests on a single granite block atop the tower, its installation remaining an engineering mystery. One theory posits a six-kilometre sand ramp used to roll the stone up with elephants, though this remains conjecture. This temple is truly amazing. We were fortunate to arrive in the evening, when the entire complex was illuminated, the shadow-play of its massive sculptures creating an ethereal effect, transporting us to a bygone era of immense skill and devotion.
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Sculptures come to life at night
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Day 5 | 8 April: Royal Palaces, Ancient Libraries & Sacred Waters
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April 8th began with delving into royal history and valuable manuscripts before continuing our temple explorations, revealing the multifaceted nature of India’s past.
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Thanjavur Maratha Palace & Saraswathi Mahal Library: Our morning began at the Thanjavur Maratha Palace complex, housing two unique treasures: the Royal Palace Museum and the Saraswathi Mahal Library. Originally constructed by the Nayak dynasty, the palace later became the seat of the Thanjavur Maratha kingdom, founded by Ekoji I (half-brother of Shivaji) in 1674, a lesser-known but significant historical link.
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(Above) Stone sculptures (Below) A Chola bronze depicting the Kalyanasundram – Shiva’s wedding to Parvati
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Inside the Royal Palace, the Rajaraja Chola Art Gallery boasts a magnificent collection of 9th- to 12th-century stone and bronze images, notably a gallery dedicated to life-size Nataraja bronzes in the tandav pose. The Saraswathi Mahal Library, also known as Thanjavur Maharaja Serfoji’s Saraswathi Mahal Library, is one of Asia’s oldest surviving libraries, established in the 16th century by the Nayak kings. It displays a rare collection of palm leaf and paper manuscripts in Tamil, Sanskrit, and other indigenous languages. With over 49,000 volumes, it’s rightfully dubbed the “Most remarkable library of India” by Encyclopedia Britannica.
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Tiruchirappalli
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Trichy – The Hub of Civilization: Having explored the wonders of Thanjavur, we set off for Tiruchirappalli, or Trichy. The Kaveri River belt in Tamil Nadu has been a cradle of major civilizational centres since ancient times. Temples here were not merely spiritual sites; they served as multifaceted hubs of society – educational, economic, and even as banks and job creators. It is due to their central role and often the Brahmin custodianship that they frequently became targets during invasions. Srirangam in Trichy, located on an island between the Kaveri and Kollidam Rivers, hosts two highly revered temples: Ranganathaswamy and Jambukeshwara. We headed to Jambukeshwara first, advised by locals for easier parking.
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(Below) The grand portals of the temple reflects its antiquity
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Jambukeshwara Temple – The Element of Water: This is another of the five Pancha Bhuta temples, representing the element of water (neer). Its sanctum famously features an underground stream. Having already experienced the Akasa Lingam (ether) at Thillai Nataraja Temple and Agni Lingam (fire) at Annamalaiyar Temple, this completed another element. Legend states that Parvati, as Akilandeswari, performed penance here, creating a lingam from the Kaveri’s water. Traditionally built by the Sangam era Chola king Kochengon in 600 BCE, its colossal complex and artistry leave one awestruck by its majestic beauty and historical depth.
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Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam – A Spiritual Township: The Ranganathaswamy Temple at Srirangam is more than just a temple; it houses an entire township within its walls. As the foremost of the 108 Divya Desams dedicated to Vishnu, it holds the unique distinction of being the largest religious complex in the world in active worship, sprawling across 155 acres with a continuous historical presence since prehistoric times. Dedicated to Ranganatha (Vishnu) and Ranganayaki (Lakshmi), it’s rich in legend, with its deity even mentioned in the epic Ramayana. While looted by the Delhi Sultanate in the early 14th century, it was later meticulously restored by Vijayanagara Empire rulers. Inscriptions highlight its multifaceted role, extending far beyond worship. It operated educational institutions and hospitals, managed free kitchens, and even funded regional infrastructure projects. Portions of the current structure near the main sanctum date back to 100-300 CE. The Hall of 1000 Pillars is a stunning planned theatre, featuring beautifully carved pillars of horses with riders and trampled tigers. Our visit was an enriching and divine experience, filling us with inner peace. During our visit, we learned of a renowned Vedic scholar nearby and decided to meet him the next morning.
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Glimpses of the 156-acre temple complex, the largest living temple in the world. Sculptures adorn the pillars of the numerous halls (mandapas) in the complex; the golden shikhara stands above the murti of the prime deity
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Day 6 | 9 April: Vedic Wisdom, Academic Insights & Cultural Capital
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April 9th brought us deeper into the intellectual and cultural heart of Tamil Nadu, emphasizing both ancient wisdom and modern education, contributing to understanding ancient civilizations and fostering knowledge.
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Meeting Shri A Krishnamachari – A Beacon of Vaishnava Scholarship: Our morning began with a visit to Shri A Krishnamachari, an eminent Vaishnava scholar who, with his son Shri Vasudevan, operates a small printing and publishing house. They tirelessly revive ancient and rare granthas, a crucial contribution to the preservation of Indian knowledge. His monumental works include a 46-volume exposition on Vaishnavism and a 16-volume treatise on the Srirangam temple. Interacting with him was an enlightening experience. He presented us with his book (“Managerial Ability of Sri Ramanuja in Retrospection”) on Ramanuja (1077-1157 CE), the philosopher, guru, and social reformer whose Vishishtadvaita philosophy laid the foundations for modern management principles and stands as one of the three most influential Vedantic philosophies of the last millennium. The preserved mortal remains of Ramanuja are enshrined within the Ranganathaswamy Temple, a living testament to his enduring legacy.
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The College’s most celebrated alumni, Dr APJ Abdul Kalam, former President of India. On the right is the classroom he attended
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St. Joseph’s College, Tiruchirappalli: Our next stop was St. Joseph’s College at Tiruchirappalli, established in 1844 by the Jesuits and one of India’s oldest higher learning institutions, spanning 76 acres. Notably, Dr. APJ Abdul Kalam, former President of India, is an alumnus. Though the college was on holiday, the Dean of the Mathematics Department kindly showed us around, and we had a fruitful discussion on topics of mutual interest, highlighting the college’s role in contemporary education. Within the college complex stood Our Lady of Lourdes Church, a Gallo-Catholic design from 1903, whose iconic 220-foot spire is visible from afar, and boasts a sandalwood altar, showcasing religious diversity.
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Our Lady of Lourdes Church, built in a Gallo-Catholic design, is located on the College campus
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Madurai
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Madurai – The Cultural Capital: From Trichy, we covered the 130 km to Madurai in just two hours. Known as Tamil Nadu’s cultural capital, Madurai’s recorded history dates back to the 3rd century BCE, mentioned by Megasthenes and Kautilya. The city is built around the Arulmigu Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple, a magnificent complex dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi (Parvati), her consort Sundaresvarar (Shiva), and her brother Azhagar (Vishnu). This temple uniquely represents a confluence of Shaivism, Shaktism, and Vaishnavism. Built by Pandyan Emperor Sadayavarman Kulasekaran I (1190-1205 CE), it was plundered by the Delhi Sultanate’s Malik Kafur in the early 14th century, but was later meticulously rebuilt by the Vijayanagara Empire. Significantly, Goddess Meenakshi is the principal deity here, a departure from most South Indian temples showcasing Shiva, reflecting a unique cultural emphasis.
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The entrance to the Arulmigu Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple welcomes devotees, among the largest temples in India
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Day 7 | 10 April: Island Pilgrimage & Southernmost Tip of Mainland India
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April 10th took us on a long drive, nearing the geographical extremes of India, a journey that combined breathtaking landscapes with profound spiritual significance.
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Rameshwaram
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Views from the Pamban road bridge (L) The new railway lift bridge (R) Fishing boats at anchor
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To Rameswaram via Pamban Bridge: Our morning began with a nearly 200 km drive to Rameswaram, reaching by lunchtime after a leisurely pace. En route, we traversed the iconic Pamban Bridge, passing the recently inaugurated new railway vertical bridge, a marvel of modern engineering complementing the historical structure. The bridge was alive with tourists capturing the postcard-perfect views of the sea on both sides. We headed directly for Dhanushkodi, an additional 25 km, mindful that the road closed in the evening.
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Dhanushkodi, the land’s end, from where the ancient Rama Setu (bridge) connects India with Sri Lanka. On the right are the ruins of a 1919-era church, destroyed in a cyclone
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Dhanushkodi, once a bustling town, was largely destroyed by a 1964 cyclone. While the railway tracks ceased, the road extends to Arichal Munai, India’s land’s end, where Sri Lanka, merely 24 km away, is visible on a clear day. Amidst the ruins of the railway station, a post office, and a church built for British soldiers in 1919, a poignant sense of a lost era permeated the air, a stark reminder of nature’s power and human resilience.
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A traditional entrance to the Ramanathaswamy Temple – one of the holiest sites in India. On the right is the entrance to the garbhagriha, showing the stone sculptures adorning the massive halls within
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Ramanathaswamy Temple – A Jyotirlinga & Char Dham Site: On Rameswaram island stands the Ramanathaswamy Temple, a sacred Shiva temple and one of India’s twelve Jyotirlinga temples, as well as one of the Char Dham pilgrimage sites. Its establishment is attributed to Adi Shankaracharya. Tradition holds that Lord Rama consecrated the lingam here before crossing the Rama Setu to Lanka. The temple’s corridors, at 3850 feet, are reputedly the longest in the world, with 1212 massive, intricately carved pillars standing 30 feet tall – a testament to ancient engineering precision and artistic dedication.
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The massive corridors are 3850 feet long and the longest in the world. The architectural expertise and engineering precision are evident in the columns, which visually end in a dot. Temple elephants walk through these corridors multiple times a day to perform rituals.
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Legend states that upon Rama’s return after defeating Ravana, he and Sita performed a yagna to expiate the sin of killing a Brahmin. Sita crafted a lingam from sand, believed to be the Ramalingam in the sanctum today, alongside the Vishvalingam brought by Hanuman from Kailash. The complex features 22 tirthas (ponds/wells) representing Rama’s 22 arrows; a pilgrimage is complete after bathing in all, beginning with the Agni Tirtha in the sea. This visit deeply resonated with HKC’s aim to explore ancient civilizations and spiritual traditions.
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Thoothukudi
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Towards Kanyakumari: It was a long drive to Kanyakumari. We covered as much distance as possible before nightfall, finding a pleasant coastal resort for dinner. Our night halt was planned at Thoothukudi (erstwhile Tuticorin), where, surprisingly, finding five empty rooms proved challenging, with most hotels full even late into the night.
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Day 8 | 11 April: Indian Mainland’s Southernmost Tip
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April 11th brought us to the very southern tip of the Indian subcontinent, a place of convergence of oceans, cultures, and spiritual legacies.
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Kanyakumari
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Journey to Kanyakumari: From Thoothukudi, it was a 130 km drive to Kanyakumari. We opted for the slower coastal road over the highway, seeking to immerse ourselves in the local feel of the region. The drive was a pleasure, winding through verdant rolling hills and endless coconut, palm, and banana plantations, with minimal traffic ensuring a relaxed journey. After a local lunch, we learned that the ferry to the Vivekananda Rock Memorial closed by late afternoon. Despite large crowds and long queues, we were fortunate to board the ferry for the short ride to the Rock.
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Vivekananda Rock Memorial & Valluvar Statue: This iconic memorial stands on one of two large rocks approximately 500 meters offshore, built in 1970 to honour Swami Vivekananda’s enlightenment here. However, the site holds older significance: tradition states Goddess Kanyakumari (Parvati) performed tapason this rock. Surrounded by the Laccadive Sea, it’s where the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean, and the Arabian Sea famously converge. The memorial comprises the Vivekananda Mandapam and the Shripada Mandapam. Swami Vivekananda had swum to the rock and meditated for three days and nights, attaining enlightenment. The architecture fuses West Bengal and Tamil Nadu styles, mirroring the Ramakrishna Math at Belur.
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On the adjacent rock stands the Statue of Wisdom, or the Valluvar Statue, a 41-meter (135 ft) stone sculpture of the Tamil poet-philosopher Thiruvalluvar, author of the Thirukkural. Unveiled in 2000, its combined height of 133 feet symbolizes the Thirukkural‘s 133 chapters. The 38-foot pedestal represents the 38 chapters of Virtue, with the statue itself representing Wealth and Love, signifying that prosperity and affection must be built on a foundation of virtue. Remarkably, the monument stood unaffected by the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. A new glass pedestrian bridge, connecting the two memorials, was inaugurated on December 30, 2024, an engineering feat providing modern access to these historical and spiritual landmarks.
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Bhagavati Kumari Amman Temple: On the city’s shores stands the Bhagavati Kumari Amman Temple, one of the 52 Shakta Pithas. Lore suggests Sati’s spine fell here, imbuing the region with Kundalini Shakti. Dedicated to Devi Kanya Kumari (the unmarried goddess, after whom the town is named), her consecration is attributed to Parashurama. Kanyakumari has existed since the Sangam period, mentioned by Ptolemy and Marco Polo. Devi Kanya Kumari, believed to be Krishna’s sister, is thought to remove mental rigidity, often bringing tears to devotees’ eyes. She descended to kill the demon Banasura, who could only be vanquished by an adolescent girl. Her worship is also linked to the mythical lost continent of Kumari Kandam in the Indian Ocean. Notably, to enter the sanctum, male devotees must wear only a dhoti, a common practice in many South Indian temples, symbolizing purity and humility. The Navarathri Mandapam on the Vivekananda Rock Memorial allows devotees to offer musical dedications to the Devi, near the Shri Pāda Pāra, a rock bearing the shape of the Devi’s feet.
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Thiruvananthapuram
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Chaotic Night Drive to Thiruvananthapuram: With Stella needing to catch her flight from Delhi the next day, we pushed on for Thiruvananthapuram, just 100 km away. The night drive was quite chaotic, typical of many Kerala coastal roads due to continuous built-up areas. It was late by the time we reached our hotel, just in time before the restaurant closed, a final dash after a day filled with profound sights.
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Day 9 | 12 April: The Golden Treasures of Thiruvananthapuram
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April 12th was dedicated to exploring Thiruvananthapuram, a city renowned for its sacred wealth and cultural institutions.
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The Padmanabhaswamy Temple – A Storehouse of Spirituality, History and Riches: Our primary destination was the Padmanabhaswamy Temple, dedicated to Vishnu, one of the 108 Divya Desams. The city’s name itself translates to “The City of Ananta,” referring to Vishnu. The deity is depicted in a unique reclining posture on the coils of the serpent Adishesha. This temple, built in a fusion of Kerala and Dravidian architectural styles with high walls and a 16th-century gopuram, is widely considered the world’s richest temple, if not religious institution.
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Ancient scriptures like the Puranas and the Mahabharata mention this temple, implying its existence since prehistoric times. Known as the “Golden Temple” since the Sangam era, its phenomenal wealth dates back to antiquity. Legend states that Parasurama purified and venerated the murti in the Dvapara Yuga, and divine serpents have historically scared away intruders attempting to plunder.
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A significant historical highlight is the construction of a granta-pura (record-room) within the temple compound around 1425 CE to store the vast Mathilakam records. A major portion of these records (over 3000 ‘Cadjan’ leaf-records), compiled over thousands of years and containing over 300 million entries, was later donated to the Archives Department in 1867. Despite their immense cultural value, only a minuscule portion of these granthas (bundles of written text), mostly in ancient proto-Tamil and archaic-Malayalam scripts, have been deciphered – a clear area for future HKC research in preserving ancient knowledge.
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In a pivotal moment on January 17, 1750, King Anizham Thirunal surrendered the Kingdom of Travancore to Padmanabhaswamy, pledging that he and his descendants would serve the kingdom as Padmanabha Dasa (servants) – a unique example of divine sovereignty.
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The deity itself is made from 12,008 saligramams brought from the Gandaki River in Nepal. The temple’s vast assets remain largely a mystery, with four large and two subterranean vaults. A 2012 Supreme Court-appointed committee attempted an inventory, but even with three of the largest vaults remaining sealed, the treasure found so far is the largest collection of gold and precious stones in recorded history, accumulated over millennia from various kings and traders across Mesopotamia, Jerusalem, Greece, Rome, European colonial powers, and other countries. An 1880s estimate by the Travancore Royal Family valued just Vault B at INR 12,000 Crores (then USD 18,000 million).
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Entry into the temple has strict traditional dress regulations. Males must wear a dhoti with no top covering, while females require traditional Indian dresses. Foreigners are not allowed inside without prior permission, a practical limitation that meant Jean and Svan had to wait outside, experiencing the temple’s grandeur from afar.
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Napier Museum: Our next stop was the Napier Museum, an art and natural history museum located on the sprawling grounds of the Thiruvananthapuram Zoo, one of India’s oldest, established in 1857 across 55 acres. The museum, an Indo-Saracenic building with Gothic roofs and minarets, is a city landmark, showcasing a unique blend of Indian, Chinese, Kerala, and Mughal architectural styles.
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Exhibits in the museum
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The complex is home to Kerala’s oldest living rubber tree, brought from Ceylon in 1876. The museum houses a rare collection of over 550 archaeological and historical artefacts, including bronze idols, ancient ornaments, a temple chariot, ivory carvings, and unique Buddhist sculptures dating back to the 1st century CE. Javanese shadow-play leather puppets inspired by the Mahabharata and Ramayana are also displayed. A highlight is the sword of Velu Thampi Dhalawa, one of the first martyrs of the Indian Freedom Struggle.
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Amazing Chola bronzes on display (L) Shiva dancing (R) Ardhanareeshwara
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As the day concluded, Stella departed for Amsterdam to return to her medical university, symbolizing the transient nature of individual journeys within the larger expedition. Meanwhile, Jyoti joined us from Delhi, bringing fresh energy to the team.
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Day 10 | 13 April: Compassion, Innovation & Kerala’s Heart
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April 13th brought us to the heart of Kerala, focusing on modern humanitarian efforts and educational innovation, reflecting HKC’s interest in contemporary social development and cutting-edge technology.
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Kottayam
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Navajeevan Trust – A Sanctuary of Hope: Our first visit was to the Navajeevan Trust in Kottayam. This remarkable NGO’s origins date back to 1982, when Shri P.U. Thomas, then a medical college attendant, was deeply moved by the plight of mentally ill individuals reduced to beggary. His first attempt at rehabilitation marked the beginning of a lifelong mission. Since then, approximately 3500 patients have returned to their families after regaining mental balance, with others on the path to recovery.
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Tasting the food; the van used to transport the food to the hospital
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The Trust’s primary activities continue to be the rehabilitation of homeless psychiatric patients, providing free food to impoverished patients in government hospitals, and caring for bedridden individuals. Currently, they serve about 500 free meals daily. This visit provided insight into the functioning of the NGO and how an individual can impact society, highlighting the power of compassion and organized social work.
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Kanjirappally
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Amal Jyothi College of Engineering – Innovation in the Hills: We then drove to the Amal Jyothi College of Engineering at Kanjirappally, nestled amidst beautiful, secluded hilly surroundings. Mr. Joe Scaria, a faculty member, conducted our tour. Owned by the Catholic Diocese of Kanjirapally, this mega-campus boasts a hostel capacity for 2500 students. We explored their state-of-the-art FM 90 FM studio, a community radio station with a low-power transmitter (5-10 km reach) dedicated to airing programs on local issues. Crucially, their app will allow global listeners to tune in, expanding its reach. The station covers three districts of Kerala, broadcasting a wide variety of programs and Malayalam songs – a fantastic example of using modern technology for community engagement. The college’s tie-ups with numerous large corporates to provide the latest technology and industry practices further underscored its commitment to modern education and skill development, a vital aspect for India’s future.
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Evening with the Scaria Family: Mr. Joe Scaria graciously invited the team to his magnificent farmhouse nearby. A senior journalist with extensive experience as an editor for “The Times of India,” his professional background promised insightful conversation. Mrs. Scaria and their journalist daughter received us warmly, showing us their charming shelter for pet ducks and dogs. The evening was filled with stimulating discussions and exchanges, enriching the atmosphere. Mrs. Scaria and their daughter prepared delicious traditional Malayali dishes, beautifully laid out on a large dining table adorned with traditional art. It was a truly delightful evening, experiencing the joy of meeting wonderful people spontaneously.
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From there, we headed to our next destination, Kalady. However, the distance was considerable, and we stopped for the night at a small hotel en route, reflecting on the day’s encounters with both profound humanitarianism and modern educational frontiers.
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The journey continues………..at Part 2 (under construction)
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Note to Readers
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- Detailed descriptions of many places/temples mentioned above have been covered in detail in my earlier blog, which can be seen at the link below:
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- The list of all my blogs has been compiled and can be seen at the link below:
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2 Responses
Thanks , Vandanam.
Thank you.