Sun worship in India is prevalent since remote antiquity. In Gujarat prevalence of the sun-cult is indicated by the number of inscriptions found and by the discovery of a number of stone sculptures of the pantheon from various parts of the State dating from about 5th century B.C. to the late mediaeval period.
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Modhera is about 100 km from Ahmedabad via Mehsana. The road connectivity is good and provides a comfortable drive.
The temple at Modhera is the most important of all sun temples in Gujarat. It enjoys the same significance as the other two well-known sun-temples in Kashmir (Martand) and Orissa (Konark). The remains of this magnificent architectural monument still reflect the glimpses of elegance and testify to the sanctity of the site.
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This temple is a contemporary of Chola temples in the South and Chandela temples in the North. This was the peak of Indian temple architecture with ample examples across the country of the finest sculpted architecture.
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Modhera or Modherapura, also known as Mundera, is said to have been the original settlement of modha Brahmans. Having its legendary past connected to the Ramayana, it is believed that modha Brahmans received Modhera as a krsnarpana on the occasion of the marriage of Rama and Sita. According to the Skanda Purana (3.2.40-67) after defeating Ravana, Lord Rama consulted Muni Vasishta to show him a place of pilgrimage where he could go and purify himself of the sin of Brahma hatyaa (the slaying of a Brahman, Ravan, who was a great Shivaite). The Muni showed him dharmaranya.
In dharmaranya, Lord Rama settled at a village called Modherak and performed a yajna there. Thereafter he established a village and named it Sitapura. It is believed that the village Modherah mentioned above, later came to be known as Modhera. The Sitapura village is about 8 km from Becharagi. Once a flourishing town and seaport, Modhera stands 24 km south of Anahitapataka (Patan) on the left bank of Pushpavati river. And the famous sun temple was constructed to the west of this river probably in 1026-27 A.D. during the reign of Chalukya King Bhima I (1022-1063 A.D.)
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A monument of incomparable beauty, this temple has been constructed in accordance with shilpasastra. The appearance of the whole scheme with its architectural setting including its accessories show that as in all good buildings, the needs and the conveniences of the undertaking are counted equally essential as its aesthetic treatment.
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The whole structure standing on a kharasila (basement) consisted of the garbhagrha (shrines) and guha-mandapa (a hall), a Sabha mandapa or ranga-mandapa (assembly hall or outer hall/ theatre hall), locally known as Sita Chavadi. In front of the temple is the kunda (sacred pond) now called the Ramakunda. Originally, there were some small subsidiary shrines, which have been destroyed.
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The temple is built using the locking system that makes it an earthquake-resistant structure – in case of an earthquake, the structure would shake but not fall. It also sits astride the Tropic of Cancer. It is so designed that on the days of equinoxes i.e. 21st March and 21st September, the first rays of sun fall on the idol of the Sun in the garbhagriha. Is this not an engineering wonder?
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The wooden interlocking system was used in the construction of the temple. Originally it is said to have been done using molten glass.
The main sun temple is on a plinth that is designed like an inverted lotus. Remember lotus is a flower that responds to the sunrays and lives only for the time when the sun rays are there. On top of lotus petals is a panel carved with Elephants called Gaj-petika. Above these the entire life cycle of a human being is carved; starting right from the time a human being is conceived with an act of intercourse to the death depicted with last rites. There are other erotic figures as well on the exterior as was the norm in the temples of that era. There are sculptures of people playing various musical instruments. Above these flora/fauna/life are the deities. There are 12 idols of Parvati in her various forms called Dwadash Gauri. There are 12 idols of Sun as if he is all-pervading. Some idols of Sun are in Irani Style with Gumboots and a long cap, probably influenced by Iranian during the reign of King Bhima I.
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Wearing high boots 
Wearing high boots
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The general structure of the main body of the temple enclosing the mandapa (hall) and garbhagrha (sanctum sanctorum) is rectangular, with its length inside the walls 51 feet 9 inches which is almost exactly double of its width of 25 feet and 8 inches. Thus the total area of about 1275 sq ft is divided into nearly two equal halves. The inner half occupies the garbhagrha and the front one the mandapa (hall). The sanctum sanctorum is 11 feet square inside. Between the outer walls of the sanctum sanctorum and that of the temple is the pradakshina-marga or bhrama (the circumambulatory passage). This passage was roofed with flat slabs laid across and carved with rosettes on the undersides and above this, rose the sikhara.
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There are 52 pillars denoting the 52 weeks in a solar year in the mandapa. The heavily carved pillars have scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata & Krishna Leela. Some of the scenes are of Sita in Ashok Vatika in Sri Lanka, vanar sena with stones in their hands to make the bridge, Krishna with Govardhan Parvat on his fingertip and Arjuna with his bow in Draupadi’s Swayamvar. There are kanyas doing their makeup.
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A guru with his disciples 
A woman playing with a child
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The mandapa as usual is peristylar with an octagonal nave covered by a splendidly carved dome. The inside walls are bare but broken by niches in each bay, containing the figure of Surya. The plain walls are more than compensated by the exquisitely carved pillars and the architraves portraying scenes from the Ramayana.
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The exterior of the temple is also profusely sculptured but perhaps the most elegant and ornamental feature of this temple is the beautiful sabha mandapa (the assembly hall). It is carved with scenes from the Mahabharata.
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On its outside walls are some representations of amorous couples similar to that at Konark.
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Outside this sabha-mandapa are two pillars of a torana from which the arch is missing. From the torana a flight of steps leads down to the kunda in front of it. The Surya-kunda, also known as Rama-kunda is rectangular and measures 176 feet north to south, by 120 feet east to west. It has many terraces and steps leading to the water level. On its sides and corners are 108 small shrines with the images of gods and goddesses namely Jalasayi Vishnu, Trivikrama, Goddess Shitala etc.
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According to literature, the steps of Surya kund are a stylized mirror image of the shikhara that unfortunately no longer exists. Symbolically it brought together fire and water.
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The shikhara of one of the shrines 
Ganesha murti inside
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“In viewing the Modhera temple as a whole the aesthetic sense at once responds to the elegance of its proportions, the entire composition being lit with the living flame of inspiration. But apart from its material beauty, its designer has succeeded in communicating to it an atmosphere of spiritual grace. The temple faces the east to that the rising sun at the equinoxes filters in a golden cadence through its openings, from doorway to corridor, past columned vestibules, to finally to fall on the deity in its garbhagraha.
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In its passage the rays of the heavenly body to which the shrine is consecrated, quiver and shimmer on pillars and archway giving life and movement to their graven form, the whole structure appearing radiant and clothed in glory. To see this noble movement with its clustered columns not only rising like exhalation but mirrored in the still waters below, is to feel that its creator was more than a great artist, but weaver of dreams.”
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What is left today is the remains after Mahmuz Gazni & Allaudin Khilji’s generals tried their best to destroy the temple. The main idol was made of pure gold and depicted the Sun God sitting on his chariot with 7 horses with his marathi (charioteer) Arjun driving the chariot. The idol sat on a deep plinth that was filled with gold coins and jewels. Today, all that can be see is the deep pit in the garbhagriha that tells the tale of plundering. The diamonds on the idol lit the whole temple when the sun rays struck it.
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“The Muhammadans not content with defacing the figure sculptures of this Modhera temple, are said to have placed bags of gunpowder in the underground shrine and blew it along with the upper ceiling, destroying sikhara or tower.”
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In addition to this, there is also an ancient temple located in the complex, where puja is still offered regularly. And one can offer prayers there. Monkeys guard the shrine!
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An example of exquisite beauty and set in serene surroundings, the Sun Temple is a must-see for all.
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