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HKC Expedition 05: September 12 – 22, 2025

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महर्षीणां भृगुरहं गिरामस्म्येकमक्षरम्।
यज्ञानां जपयज्ञोऽस्मि स्थावराणां हिमालयः।। २५ ।।

“Of the great sages I am Bhrigu; of words I am the monosyllable Om; among sacrifices I am the chanting of the holy names [japa]; and among immovable things I am the Himalayas.”

By saying “among all stationary (immovable) objects, I am the Himalaya,” Lord Krishna expresses the supreme spiritual and physical grandeur of the Himalayas and their connection with divine presence and awe.

~ Bhagavad Gita, Chapter 10, Verse 25

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Introduction

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This journey was organised as part of the exploration initiatives under OPC. The previous expedition (HKC Expedition 04) was organised across Southern India in April 2025. HKC Expedition 05 aimed to improve cultural awareness and health knowledge by providing accessible and relevant information to diverse communities around the world. OPC uses innovative programs and global expeditions, like HKC Expeditions, to provide health knowledge and cultural enrichment to remote and underserved areas. These expeditions form the basis for more ambitious future endeavors. Lt Cdr Vikram Naik, an NDA graduate and a pioneer in deep-sea diving in the Indian Navy, is the driving force behind the vision. He left the service early and went on to establish himself in the shipping industry.

The southern India sojourn covered a vast region and has been covered in detail in two blogs earlier. These can be viewed at the links given below:

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Ancient Paths, Modern Insights: A Road Trip to Unearth Southern India’s Enduring Spirit – Part 1

Ancient Paths, Modern Insights: A Road Trip to Unearth Southern India’s Enduring Spirit – Part 2

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The Journey

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We embarked on an eleven-day challenge, covering hundreds of kilometers across the harsh terrain of India’s northern borders. This journey was a deep exploration of the powerful mountains that separate India from Tibet and Pakistan, showcasing nature’s strength at every turn.

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This expedition uncovered a remarkable transformation. Beyond the legendary isolation, we encountered a silent revolution—unthinkable development in the form of world-class highways and continuous mobile connectivity, thanks to the tireless work of the Government and the Border Roads Organisation. These have now integrated places like Hot Springs and Rezangla with the rest of the country, and tourists abound everywhere.

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Fuelled by endless conversation and shared awe, this road trip was an eye-opener. Join us as we explore stunning landscapes and share the powerful stories from India’s breathtaking frontier regions.

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The Route

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Day 1 (12 Sep 2025): Jammu Airport – Nagrota

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I reached Jammu airport, accompanied by Ravi Shankar, who had caught the connecting flight from Hyderabad. Meeting with the others at the airport brought back enjoyable memories of Expedition 04.  

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The journey kicked off with a wonderful interaction with the Corps Commander at Nagrota. Having been posted at Nagrota in the early 1990s, the drive brought back memories of those days, though hardly anything was recognisable, with the surroundings completely changed. Massive floods had recently hit Jammu, and some of the aftereffects were still visible. After the interaction, I presented my book “Kashmir: The Land of Rishis-A Journey Through Time” to the General Officer. 

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In the evening, we met with Ms Devyani, a local leader at Nagrota with enormous social will and political capital. Her knowledge of the region and energy was commendable, a sign of the next-gen political leadership. 

The distance covered today was 17 km from Jammu to Nagrota.

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Day 2 (13 Sep 2025): Nagrota – Chandrakot

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The day started with an early departure at 7:00 AM towards the Chenab Bridge. The breakfast halt at Katra was followed by a visit to the excellent Army Museum, a wonderful blend of Indian civilisational heritage and recent army history. It was a treasure trove of information about the civilisation of the surrounding area, accompanied by the Rashtriya Rifles’ heritage of courage and valour. 

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Exhibits depicted both the Army’s valour in operations in the region since independence and the details and significance of the Mata Vaishno Devi shrine

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It is worth recounting the heroism of Dhobi Ram Chander, a civilian washerman who was awarded the Maha Vir Chakra (MVC), the second-highest gallantry award, for his exceptional bravery during the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947, and who was one of the heroes honoured in the museum. He was a Dhobi (washerman) in the 14 Field Company Engineers (Madras Sappers) and was part of a convoy to Jammu on December 18, 1947. The convoy was ambushed by enemy forces at Bhambla. The bridge’s decking was removed to create a roadblock; Ram Chander helped replace the decking under continuous enemy fire. After the convoy commander, Lt. Fallon, was wounded, Ram Chander grabbed the officer’s rifle and fought off the enemy, inflicting five to six casualties. He then helped the injured officer reach the nearest post 13 kilometres away, despite being a civilian and not a trained soldier. This courageous act earned him the MVC, and he remains one of only two civilians to be awarded this honour. Ram Chander passed away in 1998.

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We then drove to the recently opened Chenab (Asiknī, as ancient Indians knew it) Bridge, the world’s highest railway arch bridge, 339 metres above the river, located at Reasi. We were fortunate to see the Vande Bharat navigate the bridge as we watched from the viewpoint.

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After lunch at Reasi, we proceeded to Chandrakote via Katra. Although our destination was further away, we had to halt at Chandrakote at a RR camp due to the road conditions from the recent floods and extensive damage caused by heavy landslides. The movement of heavy vehicles was stopped, blocking half of the four-lane highway with thousands of stranded trucks in both directions. The distance of ~26 km from Udhampur to Channi Tunnel was covered in about 4.5 hours!

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Today we drove 179 km.

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Day 3 (14 Sep 2025): Chandrakot – Srinagar

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We started again at 7:00 AM from Chandrakote towards the Jawahar Tunnel across the Pir Panjal mountain range. The highway was again blocked on one side, with trucks queued up due to the restrictions on their movement. However, there was limited traffic on the road, as no tourist vehicles had yet started plying yet; the drive was thus peaceful, and one could enjoy the scenery.

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Since we were to visit Verinag, we skipped driving through the new Banihal tunnel, but chose the route through the old tunnel, which is located much higher on the mountain, thus being shorter too.

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We visited the operations room that monitored the tunnel’s parameters. It was surprising to see how technology is used in this old tunnel, built in 1956 and later upgraded.

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(L) At the entrance of Jawahar tunnel; (R) Driving inside the 1956-vintage tunnel, once the sole lifeline to the Kashmir valley

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The drive on the old Srinagar highway was peaceful, with little traffic, allowing one to enjoy the mountain scenery. This is the gateway to the Kashmir valley. 

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(L) A stupendous view of Kashmir valley from the north end of Jawahar Tunnel; (R) Titanic Point – pays tribute to Maj Bhupender Singh, SC, the martyr who lost his life fighting militants while with the BRO

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Verinag is the source of the River Vitastā (currently known as the Jhelum). She originates from an underground water spring at the base of the mountains and flows through the length of the Kashmir valley.

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(L) The river flows out of the pond; (R) The river exits into the Mughal Gardens beyond

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Verinag holds deep religious significance for Hindus, especially among Kashmiri Pandits.​ In ancient Hindu texts, notably the Nilamat Purana and the Rajtarangini, Verinag was known as Nila Nag or Nilkunda, regarded as the abode of Nila Nag, the serpent (Naga) deity who is the chief of all Nagas in the Kashmiri itihāsa.​

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The spring is said to have originated due to the intervention of Shiva, leading to its association as a sacred site for Shaivites, and many Shiv Lingams were established around the spring by devotees over the centuries.​ It is said that goddess Vitastā (Jhelum river) intended to rise from Verinag but, finding Shiva staying there, changed her course, giving Verinag its name (“Virah” meaning “to go back,” and “nag” meaning “spring”) and establishing its link with its divine origins.​

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The inscriptions at the Mughal Gardens: One, dated 1620 CE, issued by Jahangir, who constructed the octagonal structure around the pond; and the second, issued by Shah Jahan, declaring the completion of the aqueduct to take water through the Gardens

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The spring is one of Kashmir’s oldest pilgrimage sites, where Shaivite rituals and rites are performed, and it is customary for pilgrims to take a ritual dip in the spring, especially on the first day of the Hindu lunar year.​

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The Mughal Emperor Jahangir built a garden at the site in 1620. Shah Jahan then improved the gardens, and he was so enamoured by the place that he wrote for himself to be buried there after his death, a wish that didn’t materialise ultimately. Three Mughal-era stone inscriptions survive and provide details of the place. 

We then proceeded towards Srinagar. We skipped the Surya Martanda Mandir thanks to the continuous traffic jams along the route. The plan for the afternoon was to visit the Adi Shankaracharya Hill. However, by the time we reached, we realised it was too late for entry and had to return disappointed. 

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We drove a distance of 237 km today. 

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Day 4 (15 Sep 2025): Srinagar – Sonamarg

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With some good help from friends, we started the day very early at 6:30 AM to try our luck with the Adi Shankaracharya Hill once again. Thankfully, this time we were not only not disappointed but had an excellent Darshan with a Puja and a deep meditation session at the cave, where the great Acharya himself meditated.

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(L) The huge Shivalinga; (R) The cave where Adi Shankaracharya meditated and the literary work Saundarya Lahari was composed, after accepting the major philosophy in the region at the time, that of Shakti, and that the union of Shiva and Shakti, as in Shaktism, transpired into the symbolism of the Sri Yantra

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We visited the Beacon School, a school run by the BRO. The principal, Ms Lehar, was bubbling with ideas, which were apparent from the energised environment of the school. 

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A projector was presented to the school to help in spreading knowledge among the youngsters. 

The next destination was the Ksheer (Kheer) Bhavani Mandir. It is a highly revered Hindu shrine located in the village of Tula Mula near Srinagar, dedicated to Goddess Ragnya Devi, an incarnation of Goddess Durga or Mata Bhavani. The goddess is said to have asked Hanuman to bring her here from Lanka due to Ravana’s increasingly immoral actions. 

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The temple’s origins date back millennia, though the current structure was built by Maharaja Pratap Singh in 1912 and later renovated by Maharaja Hari Singh.

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The temple is built around a sacred spring whose waters are believed to have divine and healing properties. This spring’s water is famed for changing colours—red, blue, green, pink, orange, violet, and white—which is interpreted as a sign of the goddess’s blessings or warnings about events.​

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Performing puja

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The name “Kheer Bhavani” derives from the offering of “kheer” (a rice and milk pudding) made to the goddess, symbolising devotion and respect. The temple hosts the largest annual gathering of any shrine in Kashmir and is one of the few Hindu temples in the region that has maintained continuous worship despite decades of unrest.

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After the puja, we proceeded to lunch, where the surrounding apple garden let us enjoy the freshly picked, juicy fruit.

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Post lunch, we headed to Sonamarg, meaning “Meadow of Gold”, on the banks of the Sindh River. It is a picturesque hill station located in the Ganderbal district, about 90 km from Srinagar. Situated at an altitude of about 2,800 meters (9,200 feet) above sea level, it is renowned for its stunning natural beauty, including snowy mountains, alpine meadows, glaciers, and serene lakes.

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It serves as a gateway to Ladakh through the nearby Zojila Pass and for the Amarnath Yatra pilgrimage. Two tunnels are under construction/recently completed for entering Ladakh. The 6.50 km Z-Morh tunnel was completed in 2025, with approaches of equal length on either end, while the Zojila tunnel is under construction.

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(Above) Entrance of the Zojila tunnel under construction; (Below) Drilling in progress on the rock face about 6 km into the mountain

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The 14.15 km Zojila Tunnel is a monumental infrastructure project in the Himalayas designed to provide all-weather, year-round connectivity between Kashmir and Ladakh by bypassing the treacherous Zojila pass at an altitude of 3,000 meters (approximately 11,578 feet). It represents a strategic military and economic asset, featuring modern tunnel safety technologies and is expected to transform travel and logistics in the region once completed by around 2030. We were fortunate to get a good tour of the construction site and witness the construction process.

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The night was spent at Sonamarg amidst heavenly surroundings. 

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The night was spent in the midst of the majestic mountains of Sonamarg

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Today we covered a distance of 199 km.

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Zojila Tunnel – Interesting features of the mega project

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Day 5 (16 Sep 2025): Sonamarg – Kargil

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(Above) Driving above the Sindh River towards Zojila Pass; (Below) The Baltal Base Camp is visible from the highway, and the trekking route towards Amarnath Cave can be seen heading along the valley

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After a good rest at Sonamarg, we proceeded towards Kargil via Drass. The drive across the Zojila Pass was exhilarating, as the base camp for the Amarnath yatra at Baltal remained visible far below as we climbed to cross the pass. The valley leading to the Amarnath cave was also clearly visible on a clear day.

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Amazing views while crossing Zojila Pass

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After Zojila Zero Point (11,649 feet altitude), while approaching Drass, is the Zojila War Memorial, located at an altitude of 11,575 feet.

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It is dedicated to the Indian soldiers who fought heroically during the 1947-1948 Indo-Pakistani War, especially commemorating “Operation Bison,” the bold military operation that recaptured the Zojila Pass from Pakistani intruders on November 1, 1948. Operation Bison was notable for the innovative induction of light tanks at extremely high altitudes, a first in mountain warfare that surprised the enemy and led to Indian forces pushing back infiltrators.

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Along the highway was a lesser-known Draupadi Kund, a mystically significant high-altitude lake deeply connected to the Hindu itihāsa. According to local lore, it is the place where Draupadi, the central character from the Mahabharata, took her last bath before ascending to the heavens. This Kund is considered sacred and surrounded by breathtaking Himalayan landscapes, which add to its serene and spiritual ambience.​

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Draupadi Kund – where Draupadi took a bath before ascending to heaven. The water has healing qualities (it’s not a hot spring), and it never freezes even in the harshest winters

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The Kund is remarkable for its water that never freezes, even during the brutally cold winters when temperatures can drop to -40 to -60 degrees Celsius. Nearby, there’s a small temple dedicated to Draupadi, providing a unique mix of history, nature, tranquility, and spirituality in the rugged landscape of Drass. 

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The Kargil War Memorial, though located in Drass, commemorates the Indian soldiers who fought and sacrificed their lives during the 1999 Kargil War between India and Pakistan.​ Operation Vijay was launched in May 1999 to reclaim heights, like Tololing, Batra Peak (earlier Point 4875), Rhino Horn, Tiger Hill, etc., occupied by infiltrators across the Line of Control (LoC) in the Kargil region.​

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(L) Tololing peak (the highest peak visible); (R) Tiger Hill, one of the most formidable peaks, which was recaptured

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The war lasted over two months, ending with the eviction of Pakistani forces.

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Paying homage to the martyrs

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The entrance gate and the presence of a large Indian tricolour flag flying high against the mountainous horizon instil deep patriotism in visitors. The tranquil and reflective surroundings, accompanied by breathtaking views of the nearby battle sites like Tololing Heights and Tiger Hill, leave visitors inspired and contemplative.

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(L) The memorial of the Unknown Soldier; (R) The Bofors medium gun, which played a decisive role in the war

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The majestic structure, built with pink sandstone, features a huge brass plate engraved with the names of 527 soldiers who laid down their lives. The oratory and meticulousness of the Army guides who conduct visitors is par excellence and gives goosebumps to those listening to the war stories as they had unfolded, in the vast natural amphitheatre in front. 

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After a slow journey owing to breathtaking scenery along the drive, we reached Kargil by 2:30 PM. After lunch, we met Mr Ghulam Khan, a local social worker who runs an Academy to coach students for getting government/banking jobs and a school. We also visited an orphanage for girls, where the children’s infectious energy was palpable. 

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We made a short visit to the LOC along the Indo-Pakistan border from where the posts across were visible. 

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We returned to our rooms early to rest at this high altitude.

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With plentiful halts, we still covered 150 km of mountainous roads today. 

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Day 6 (17 Sep 2025): Kargil – Leh

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We started early from Kargil and took the first stop at the Maitreya Buddha, which is situated on the highway itself. Maitreya is supposed to currently reside in the celestial realm of Tushita heaven and is prophesied to descend to Earth in a future era when the teachings (Dharma) of Gautama Buddha have declined. Upon his arrival, Maitreya will achieve enlightenment and teach the pure Dharma anew, re-establishing the Buddha’s path for humanity. 

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It is one of the three tallest rock-cut relief statues of Buddha in Ladakh, which are collectively also known as the “Bamiyan Buddhas of Ladakh”.

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The sculpture is a striking, enormous figure carved into the rock face on the right-hand side of the road. It is a 30-foot-tall Maitreya Buddha (Buddha who will be reborn, also called the “chamba” in the local language) statue overlooking the old trade route and modern highway. It dates to the Kushan period, from 1 century BCE to 6th century CE, predating Tibetan Buddhism and the now-destroyed 6th century Buddhas of Bamiyan in Afghanistan. 

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The carving located is part of the Mulbekh Monastery. This ancient statue is a significant site, marking the starting point of Buddhist culture in the region. The statue is an amalgamation of esoteric Saivite symbolism with Buddhist artwork. 

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The two passes the highway negotiates between Kargil and Leh

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Beyond the Mulbekh, the drive was a constant series of twists and turns as the highway negotiated two major passes – the Namikala Pass (12,198 feet altitude) and then the FatuLa Pass (13,478 feet altitude), the highest point between Kargil and Leh.

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However, the road quality and alignment made driving on this part of the journey relatively easy.

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The next destination was the ancient Lamayuru Monastery, also known as Yuru Gompa. It is one of the oldest and most famous Buddhist monasteries in the region, situated at an altitude of 3,510 metres (11,520 ft). It is often called the “Moonland” due to its lunar-like landscape, characterised by unique rock formations and barren mountains.

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The monastery belongs to the Drikung Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism and dates back to the 11th century, serving as a significant spiritual and cultural centre. It is perched on a hill overlooking the Indus Valley, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, making it a popular destination for visitors seeking both spiritual and scenic experiences. The monastery houses about 150 monks and is known for its ancient murals, traditional Tibetan architecture, and vibrant annual festivals, particularly the Yuru Kabgyat mask dance festival.

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The “Moonland” near Lamayuru features Badlands formations created by the extensive erosion of lacustrine sediments deposited by an ancient paleolake, which existed around 35,000 years ago due to tectonic activity. The landscape is characterised by folds, crevices, and steep slopes made of silt, clay, sand, and mud deposits. The underlying geology of the region consists of Triassic-Jurassic shales, schists, and phyllites, forming the Lamayuru Formation. Tectonic activity on the Indus Suture Zone caused landslides that dammed the Lamayuru River, creating the large palaeolake. 

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Lamayuru Monastery is renowned for its thangkas, which are intricate religious paintings on fabric, depicting Buddhist deities, scenes, and symbols. These thangkas are an integral part of the monastery’s sacred art collection, adorning the assembly and prayer halls. Thangkas at Lamayuru feature a range of subjects, including various Buddhas, bodhisattvas like Green Tara, scenes from the life of Buddha, and symbolic mandalas

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Legend and history intertwine at Lamayuru. The monastery was originally the foremost Bon monastery in Ladakh; its name means swastika, a popular symbol in Bon culture for “eternity”. It was later converted to a Buddhist monastery by Indian scholar Naropa (956-1041 CE) in the 11th century, who is said to have miraculously dried up a lake to establish the site. Rinchen Zangpo (958-1055 CE), a great translator and builder of monasteries, is credited with constructing the oldest surviving temple here, Sengge Lhakhang, which houses rare statues and mandalas. The meditation cave of Naropa is inside. 

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Lamayuru Monastery is renowned for its thangkas, which are intricate religious paintings on fabric, depicting Buddhist deities, scenes, and symbols. These thangkas are an integral part of the monastery’s sacred art collection, adorning the assembly and prayer halls. Thangkas at Lamayuru feature a range of subjects, including various Buddhas, bodhisattvas like Green Tara, scenes from the life of Buddha, and symbolic mandalas. The thangkas follow strict iconographic rules, relying on a traditional colour palette—red, green, yellow, blue, and white—which represent the five elements: fire, water, air, earth, and ether. Each colour in the thangkas holds deep symbolic meaning; for example, white signifies purity and peace, yellow prosperity, red power, green activity, and blue wrath. 

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Few prominent figures depicted in the paintings are:

– Tara, who is the consort of Avalokiteśvara. She is believed to be the reincarnation of Buddha’s mother, who came to bring Buddhism back to Tibet. She appears mainly in green and white colours.

– Avalokiteśvara, the thousand-armed god of fertility. The arms are symbolic of his compassion for living beings and his wisdom. Tantric Vajrayana Buddhism considers compassion masculine and wisdom feminine.

 – Mahakala, the wrathful Shiva, is considered the guardian of Buddha’s teachings.

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After lunch, we drove toward the confluence of the Zanskar with the Sindhu (Indus)—known locally as “Sangam”—a site of striking natural beauty that holds significance for the region’s culture, spirituality, and history. It is famous for the vivid colour contrast visible where the emerald-green Zanskar River merges with the blue or muddy-brown Indus River, offering a breathtaking view from the highway above. The colour contrast results from a unique combination of the river’s sediment load, minerals, water chemistry, and physical properties, creating a memorable natural spectacle as the rivers meet and gradually blend. The Indus River was vital to the survival of the ancient Indus-Saraswati Valley Civilisation, along with the Saraswati River, and it continues to serve as an essential water source for Ladakh and northern India.

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The next stop was at the Magnetic Hill, a site famous for its optical illusion where vehicles in neutral gear appear to move uphill, though they are actually descending. The unique topography creates a visual effect that misleads the observer, making it seem as if gravity is being defied. This phenomenon has made Magnetic Hill a popular attraction along the Leh highway. 

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We reached Leh in the late afternoon. 

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Hall of Fame at Leh

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The evening was enlivened by visiting the Leh War Memorial Museum and the Sound and Light Show. It is also known as the Hall of Fame, and it was established by the Indian Army in 1986 to honour the valour and sacrifices of Indian soldiers, particularly those who laid down their lives during the Indo-Pak Wars, which now includes the Kargil War of 1999. As we experienced earlier in Kargil, the JCO/NCO guides who conducted the visitors were exceptional in their knowledge and in conveying the essence of what the museum stands for. The visit offered a solemn and educational experience.

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Mulbekh Rock Cut Buddha – link for viewing more photographs

https://www.instagram.com/p/DOtjcYhkyX_/?igsh=NmtncjcxODRvMHpj

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Lamayaru Monastery – link for viewing more photographs

https://www.instagram.com/p/DO1AKDMCYs0/?igsh=NGJvNW8yZ3VwMzgz

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Day 7 (18 Sep 2025): Conference on IKS at the University of Ladakh

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Coincidentally, we landed at a seminar on the Indian Knowledge Systems (IKS) being held at the University of Ladakh (UOL). It was an opportunity not to be missed. We met Prof. Subhrat Sharma, Dean of Research at the UOL, who introduced us to the core team. The seminar was instructive about many ancient practices being followed in Ladakh and the efforts being made to revive these eco-friendly measures for the future.  

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This was followed by a visit to the Zorawar Fort to understand the history of the legendary general, Zorawar Singh and his expeditions. General Zorawar Singh (1784–1841) was a distinguished military general who served under the Dogra Raja Gulab Singh of Jammu. He is famously called the “Napoleon of the East” for his remarkable military conquests and strategic vision in the Himalayan region. His campaigns demonstrated mastery of high-altitude warfare, logistics, and diplomacy. Zorawar Singh skilfully balanced military might with respect for local customs, stabilising the newly conquered regions, which included campaigns into Tibet. His achievements laid the groundwork for the political boundaries of modern Ladakh and northern India. His conquest of Ladakh (1834–1835) overcame difficult terrain, harsh weather, and local resistance. He reached Leh in the first week of December during the peak winter, surprising the enemy, a feat which cannot be contemplated even in the present day. His victories compelled the Ladakhi king to accept Dogra suzerainty, thus integrating Ladakh into the Dogra kingdom. He later built the Zorawar Fort in Leh. He was ultimately captured and killed in Tibet in 1841.  

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In the late afternoon, we visited Spituk Monastery, also known as Spituk Gompa, a prominent Buddhist monastery located about 8 km from Leh. It was founded in the 11th century by Od-de, a spiritual figure associated with the early spread of Buddhism in the region. It is situated atop a hill, offering panoramic views of the Indus Valley, including the city of Leh, and surrounding mountains, making it a striking and scenic site. 

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The architecture features traditional Tibetan design with whitewashed walls, red and gold accents, prayer halls, and stupas. Inside, there is a large assembly hall with beautiful murals, ancient thangkas, and a giant statue of Kali (Goddess Durga).

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Leh: breathtaking views – link for viewing more photographs

https://www.instagram.com/p/DPGKOzuic8u/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

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Day 8 (19 Sep 2025): Leh – Pangong Tso

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We started after breakfast and drove towards the Chang La Pass via Shey. The Pass is at 17,580 ft or 5,360 m above MSL. After a chilling time at the Pass and a brief photography session trying to capture the vast landscape spread before us, we proceeded towards Durbuk for lunch.

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After lunch, we visited the Garden of Wisdom, Sherab Gatsalling Gonpa School, Shachukul, Changthang, a monastery-run school funded by the Central Institute of Buddhist Studies. The village was at a remote location, surrounded by the majestic Himalayas.

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The children, dressed in monk robes, joined us for a photograph with their cheerful demeanor. A projector was gifted to the school on behalf of OPC.

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On the way to the Pangong Tso lake, we visited the BRO-run café en route. Beautifully done up, it was a popular halt for all visitors passing by. 

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The drive to the lake was on an excellent highway, a big difference from my last visit in 2019, when the journey was an ordeal because the roads were all dug up. After visiting the lake, we reached Lukung for the night’s halt.

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Today, we covered 250 km. 

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Day 9 (20 Sep 2025) Pangong Tso – Rezangla – Hanle

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As the sun rises over the mountains

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We started from Pangong Tso after a light breakfast and drove towards Rezangla. The beauty of the drive along the lakeside was enchanting and breathtaking, reminding one that we don’t necessarily need to go through the Great Barrier Reef Drive, the Alps, or the Rocky Mountains to experience the myriad colours of crystal clear waters, or the majestic mountains, again in a range of hues that cannot even be visualised, till one sees them. And the BRO roads are a pleasure to cruise on! 

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Amazing hues of the water…..

….and the myriad colours of the surrounding mountains

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Pangong Tso, also called Pangong Lake, is a stunning high-altitude brackish lake situated at about 4,350 meters (14,270 feet) above sea level, spanning eastern Ladakh in India and western Tibet, China. It stretches approximately 134 km long and up to 5 km wide at its broadest point. About one-third of the lake lies in India, with the remaining two-thirds in Tibet, making it a geopolitically sensitive border area.

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After a detour through the Chushul village for want of directions, we reached Rezangla. We were now travelling near the Line of Actual Control (LAC) with China, at places just a stone’s throw away. Rezang La is a high mountain pass located in the Chushul sector. Its altitude is 5,199 meters (17,057 feet) above sea level, making it one of the highest battlefields in the world.  

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Rezang La is famous for the heroic Battle of Rezang La fought on November 18, 1962, during the Sino-Indian War. In this battle, Charlie Company of the 13 Kumaon battalion, consisting of 120 soldiers mostly from the Ahir community, fought against a much larger Chinese army. Under the leadership of Major Shaitan Singh Bhati, the vastly outnumbered Indian soldiers held their ground in a valiant last stand, inflicting over 1300 casualties on the enemy before they were overrun and killed.  

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The Rezang La War Memorial, built by the Army in 1963, stands as a stirring tribute to the extraordinary courage and sacrifice of the Kumaon Regiment in the legendary 1962 battle. Recently renovated, its simple, elegant design powerfully resonates with the stark grandeur of the surrounding mountains—making it not just a memorial, but an unforgettable site of national pride and solemn reflection.

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We were briefed about the Battle at the memorial, and could see many of the sites on the ground on the surrounding mountain. Saluting such bravery, we headed to our next destination, Hanle. 

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The beautifully laid out museum depicts the stories of valour in graphic detail

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Rezang La Memorial – link for viewing more photographs

https://www.instagram.com/p/DO1DOVQCZ3K/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

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We reached Hanle in the afternoon, in time for lunch. The roads were excellent even in these remote areas.

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The long drive after Rezangla was across vast stretches of flat land, with excellent roads, seemingly leading to nowhere!

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The latter part of the journey to Hanle was along the Indus River, making the journey more picturesque

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After a relaxed afternoon, we headed to the world’s highest Scientific Observatory.

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Hanle Observatory, officially called the Indian Astronomical Observatory (IAO), is located atop Mt. Saraswati in Hanle village, south-eastern Ladakh, at an elevation of 4,500 meters (14,764 feet), making it one of the world’s highest astronomical observatories. It is managed by the Indian Institute of Astrophysics (IIA), Bengaluru.

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Hanle is part of the Hanle Dark Sky Reserve, renowned for its clear, dark skies with minimal atmospheric disturbance—ideal for optical, infrared, and gamma-ray astronomy. It relays real-time data to scientists at IIA. Also present at Hanle is the Major Atmospheric Cherenkov Experiment (MACE) telescope, which captures gamma-ray emissions from outer space. BARC manages this telescope. We were briefed about its workings and the uses of this by a young engineer at the site. 

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(L) The telescope; (R) Telescopes dot the landscape, involved in various experiments

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We had a chance encounter with a group of 50+ amateur astronomers who had gathered for night sky viewing. They were having a field night, to say the least, in such cold conditions. As part of the group was a telescope manufacturer from Gurugram, Mr Ajay Talwar.

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We were not lucky enough to get a telescopic view of the night sky, but managed a clear view of the Milky Way, or Akasha Ganga, with our naked eyes. 

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Hanle Observatory – link for viewing more photographs

https://www.instagram.com/p/DPGMDsoiU0f/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

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Another long day; today we covered 238 km.

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Day 10 (21 Sep 2025) Hanle – Umling La – Demchok – Dungti – Leh

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We started early from Hanle, given that we had a long drive and an activity-packed day ahead. We headed through a road yet to be constructed, cutting through the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary using a dirt track across the vast, open, barren meadows. If not for the guide vehicle leading us, it would have been impossible to find our way in the wilderness. The sanctuary covers a large part of eastern Ladakh, including the Hanle Valley. It is one of India’s largest protected areas, known for its stunning high-altitude desert landscape, seasonal wetlands, and diverse wildlife. It is a pristine habitat for Himalayan wildlife and rare birds, contributing to Ladakh’s ecological and astro-tourism charm. As expected, the region has no mobile connectivity. 

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Thanks to this shortcut, we reached our first destination, Umling La, considerably faster. Umling La is a high-altitude mountain pass near the village of Demchok. At a staggering elevation of 19,024 feet (5,798 meters), it held the world record for the highest motorable road from 2017 until 2025, when we drove across it. Recently, this title was surpassed by Mig La Pass—also located in Ladakh, at an altitude of 19,400 feet. Umling La connects the remote villages of Chisumle and Demchok, significantly improving connectivity in the region. The pass sits atop a ridgeline dividing the Koyul Lungpa and Indus River systems. The route offers awe-inspiring Himalayan landscapes, barren highlands, and a sense of remoteness unmatched elsewhere. Travellers encounter extreme conditions at high altitudes: oxygen levels are about 50% of those at sea level, temperatures often drop below freezing, and the weather can change quickly. Acute Mountain Sickness is a serious risk, so careful acclimatisation is essential for attempting the journey. 

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We next headed to Demchok, the first village in India from the Tibetan border. After a drive through terrains usually avoided by motorists, we reached the border posts where the Chinese and the Indian soldiers face off each other. The boundary here is the Indus, or the Sindhu River, which flows into India from Tibet.

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Hot Springs, a spring on the border in this area, is where hot water flows into the Sindhu River through a small stream. This stream is the border demarcation, and we drove to the springs on the dirt track along the Indian side, barely 20 meters inside our territory. The fact that Google Maps is unable to give the distance and route in these areas shows the great ground that BRO has covered.

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Historically, Demchok is an ancient region that has been part of Ladakh since the 10th century. The hot springs have been integral to the lifestyle and health practices of local nomadic communities like the Changpa, who have used these natural resources for generations. Traditional hydrotherapy based on these hot springs is deeply embedded in the Sowa-Rigpa system of medicine practised by the region’s Amchi healers. During the Dogra rule in the 19th century, the area gained strategic importance, especially during General Zorawar Singh’s campaigns. Demchok village became divided after the 1962 Sino-Indian War. 

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The annual gathering of locals at the hot springs is a culturally significant event centred around the natural geothermal springs believed to have healing properties. Locals and pilgrims from surrounding areas converge here to bathe in the sulphur-rich waters, which are traditionally thought to cure ailments like joint pain, skin diseases, and digestive issues. The annual gathering had just finished when we reached, with only a few stragglers still around. 

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(L) At the Hot Springs; (R) The dirt track on the left runs along the LAC, which is the small stream emanating from the Hot Springs and barely visible. The hill seen on the right is in Tibet, as is the mountain seen in the background. The stream joins the Indus River at the base of the mountain

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After posing with our backs to the Chinese cameras, we headed to Dungti for lunch. This was another scenic drive along the Indus River, through the mountains. BRO has constructed unimaginable straight roads, cutting through mountains in these regions. 

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Demchok to Leh: Phenomenal Upgradation – link for viewing more photographs

https://www.instagram.com/p/DO6Vlg3CdoH

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After lunch, we drove along the Sindhu River for ~200 km to reach Leh. We crossed Nyoma, situated at an altitude of approximately 13,700 feet (4,200 meters) above sea level. It has the highest operational airfield in the world as of 2025. Located near the village of Nyoma and close to the Line of Actual Control (LAC) with China, this advanced landing ground (ALG) plays a crucial strategic role in India’s defense preparedness in the region. It features a newly constructed 3-kilometre runway capable of supporting fighter jets, emergency operations, and rapid mobilisation of troops and equipment.

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En route, we had a couple of breaks for photography on a suspension bridge across the Indus and for sandwiches at Phey. We reached Leh at night.

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Stretching our legs—a walk across the Indus

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Google is unable to provide a map for this day. Approx distance covered was 316 km.

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Day 11 (22 Sep 2025) DIHAR and Back Home

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After a good night’s rest, we headed to the Defence Institute of High Altitude Research (DIHAR) at Leh. We interacted with Dr Ajay Chaurasia, the Director of the Institute. We went around the Institute with one of the senior scientists, Dr Dorjey Angchok, who showed us the horticulture and agricultural research being undertaken there.

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Among its research activities, DIHAR experiments cross-breeding of hardy animals for army use, e.g., Zanskar ponies, more popularly known as the hump-backed camels

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With the gift of a freshly plucked apple and seeing yaks and lamas, we headed back with an understanding of how a large proportion of fresh vegetables, earlier transported all the way from the plains, are now being grown locally, with technology developed here and disbursed under government-sponsored initiatives.   

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Conclusion

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As the engine finally quieted, an overwhelming sense of elation and quiet introspection settled over us. This wasn’t merely an eleven-day expedition; it was an odyssey measured not in kilometers but in the depths of our conversations and the sheer scale of our exploration. The long hours behind the wheel, which vanished “in a jiffy,” were powered by an unending exchange of ideas, laughter, and shared awe—the right company, as always, being the secret ingredient to an indelible journey.

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But the true revelation lay in the landscape itself. Driving deep into the remote high-altitude regions bordering Pakistan and Tibet, we didn’t just visit new places; we witnessed a silent revolution along India’s northern frontier. To see highways that rival the nation’s best snake across this stark terrain, providing near-continuous mobile and internet access, was nothing short of breathtaking. It speaks to a tremendous, almost unthinkable development that has finally broken the decades-old isolation of these cut-off lands.

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From the sheer volume of visitors at places like Hot Springs and Rezangla, it’s clear tourists are now embracing these once-forbidden frontiers. This journey was a testament to the fact that progress and adventure are not mutually exclusive. A profound debt of gratitude is owed to the Border Roads Organisation; they didn’t just build roads—they paved the way for this once-in-a-lifetime experience, connecting the heart of our country to its most resilient, magnificent edge. We returned not just with photographs, but with a renewed sense of awe for the land and the spirit that carves paths through the impossible.

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The mighty Pir Panjal ranges never cease to enthral

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A list of all my blog posts can be seen at the link below:

List of My Photo-Blogs/Travelogues

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Note: All photographs displayed above with watermarks are my exclusive property and copyright; their use is prohibited without explicit consent, in writing.

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