It is a “marvellous exhibition of human labour to be found even in the patient east and surpasses anything in Gothic art”.

 ~ James Fergusson, 19th-century art critic

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India is known for its variety of exotic destinations from mountains, tropical jungles, beaches, deserts and game reserves. These showcase modern destinations as well as the ancient culture of the 5000 years-old civilization. Many are still in surprisingly good condition, despite the sub-continent having been ravaged by invaders for over 1000 years. Unfortunately, only a few of these destinations are known to the outside world, most not even visited by the locals.

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Among one of the truly great wonders of India are the temples created (not constructed!) by the Hoysala kings in the 11 to 14^th century CE. Each temple is a piece of art with exceptionally intricate sculptural artistry and far beyond being temples for mere worship. They represent the pinnacle of artistic and cultural accomplishments of the dynasty. They were incredible expressions of spirituality for carrying out practice and reaching attainment.

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I have subsequently undertaken another visit to some Hoysala Temples, whose blogs can be viewed at the link below:

The Nageshvara-Chennakeshava Temple Complex, Mosale

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We started with the visit to the Chandramouleswara Temple, Arasikere. It is also known as Ishwara Temple. “Arasikere” means “Queens tank” in Kannada. The temple dates to1220 CE. What makes the otherwise ordinary sculptural decorations of the temple unique is the floor plan – perhaps the most complicated and unique of all Hoysala temples. It has a 16-pointed star-shaped mantapa (hall) and an asymmetrical star-shaped shrine, whose star points are of three different types. The mantapa has beautiful 21 lathe-turned pillars and stone benches along the sides. The ceiling is intricately carved in the shape of an inverted lotus.

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It is dedicated to Shiva and is an ekakuta temple (single shrine) with one shikhara, two mantapas – one open and one closed. The three units are connected to form a unity.

The outer wall of the shrine is decorated with figures of deities, stories from Puranas and the epics. A Nandi bull is placed on top of the Sukanasi instead of the regular Hoysala emblem.

If this architectural wonder was for starters, I wondered what the other temples would be like!

Shivaratri and Kartik Amavasya are two major festivals of the temple.

Arasikere is 41 km from Hassan and 200 km from Bangalore.

To know about this temple in detail, read my follow-up blog on Chandramouleswara Temple here. 

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Our next visit was to the exquisite Amrutheshwara Temple located in the village of Amruthapura in Chikmagalur district. While approaching it, it gave a deceptively small look, but we were all in for a surprise at the number of wonders it held within. It was built in 1196 CE. This is also an Ekakuta temple dedicated to Shiva and built close to the Bhadra River reservoir. Along with the idol of Shiva, which has been brought from river Gandaki in Nepal, an idol of Sharadha Devi is present on its right. An interesting feature of the Temple is that a lamp inside the temple has been burning for the past 200 years!!

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The shrine is square in shape and has the original shikhara, which is adorned with sculptures of Kirtimukhas (demon faces) with miniature decorative towers. The row of shining lathe turned pillars that support the ceiling of the mantapa is an outstanding feature of the temple.

The outer parapet wall of the open mantapa has a total of 140-panel sculptures with depictions from the Hindu epics. A distinctive feature of the temple is the balustrade of the open or outer mantapa, which has over 100 miniatures of temple tower-like structures as part of the decorative swirls in bas-relief. The temple also houses a huge stone inscription, which consists of Kannada poetry.  

Amruthapura is situated around 67 km north of Chikmagalur.

To read about the Amrutheshwara Temple in more detail, check out my follow-up blog here.

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The next day morning we were at the beautiful Lakshmi Devi Temple, Doddagaddavalli. It is situated adjacent to a serene lake and is one of the oldest surviving Hoysala temples, having been completed in 1116 CE built by King Vishnuvardhana. Another hidden wonder about which I had not even heard of previously.

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The temple is based on a unique chatuskuta design (having four shrines and towers). The four shrines are dedicated to Kali, Lakshmi, Shiva and Vishnu and are in the four cardinal directions. Only one of these towers is well decorated and this is of the main shrine that houses the 3-foot-tall Lakshmi Devi murti with an attendant on either side. On each side of the entrance to the garbhagriha are two big images of Kalika bodyguards. The presence of this structure shows the influence of the tantra cult in the construction of the temple.

The richly carved ceilings depict various bhagwans on their vahanas. A unique aspect of the temple is the shrine, in the north, dedicated to Shantaswarupa Kali, flanked by Shakini and Dakini, unlike other Hoysala temples that are mostly dedicated to either Vishnu or Shiva.

Doddagaddavalli village is situated 2 km from the Hassan-Halebidu highway. 

More details about the Lakshmi Devi Temple are given in the follow-up blog here.

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Sri Veera Narayana Swamy Temple, Belavadi, another temple that amazed us with the craftsmanship within. Every temple we visited during this trip was beyond compare and the experience was truly overwhelming. In ancient times the place was known as Ekachakranagar, where during Mahabharata Bhima killed the demon Bakasura. This Trikuta temple was built in 1200 CE by King Veera Ballala II and is among the bigger Hoysala shrines. This temple has amazing architecture, as compared to the more famous temples of Belur and Halibeedu that are famous for intricate sculptures.

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All the three shrines have images of Vishnu, though in different avatars. The central shrine is an older shrine and has a tall image of Veernarayana Swamy standing under a Kalpavriksha. It has been certified by ASI as the best Krishna Murti of India. Its beautiful carving makes you feel his divine presence.

The southern shrine has an image of Venugopala (Krishna playing the flute) and the northern shrine has an image of Yoganarasimha, sitting in a yoga posture holding a shanka and chakra.

All three murtis are made from Ekashila Shaligram.

A unique aspect of this temple is its Trikuta vimana and stunningly beautiful murtis. Emphasis is more on the inner beauty of the temple and Vigrahas.

Festivals celebrated here include Chaitra Purnima, Janamashtami, Rathasaptami, and Narasimha Jayanti. During Chaitra Purnima, the Utsav Murtis of Vishnu, Shridevi, and Bhudevi are taken out in a procession.

Belavadi is 12 KMs from Halebidu on the Javagal Chickmaglur highway.

To read about the Sri Veera Narayana Swamy Temple in more detail, my follow-up blog on this temple is here.

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One of the main temples of Hoysala dynasty, the Hoysaleshwar Temple, Halebidu was next on our itinerary. At the zenith of the Hoysala empire, the capital was shifted from Belur to Halebidu that was then known as Dorasamudhra. The Hoysaleshwara temple is the most exemplary architectural ensemble of the Hoysalas existing today. It was built in 1121CE during the reign of the King, Vishnuvardhana Hoysaleshwara. The temple is a Dvikuta (having two shrines). The two garbha grihas (sanctum sanctorum) are connected by a mantapa (porch) forming a large open hall. One shrine is dedicated to King Vishnuvardhan and the other to his Queen Shantala, therefore it is called Shantaleshwara. 

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More sculpturally and artistically sophisticated than any other Hoysala temple, the Hoysaleshwara temple is most well-known for the more than 340 large reliefs that run all along the outer wall.

The temple of Halebidu has been described by Percy Brown as an “outstanding example of Hindu architecture” and as the “supreme climax of Indian architecture”.

The temple premises include a museum managed by the ASI. It contains pieces of ruins and temple artwork recovered from the site. The temple premise also has the Garuda Sthambh (pillar) to the south but it is damaged.

To read about the Hoysaleshwar Temple, Halebidu in more detail, my follow-up blog on this temple is here.

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Within a kilometre of the Hoysaleshwar Temple is another famous temple, the Kedareshwara Temple, Halibedu. The temple was constructed in 1219 CE by King Veera Ballala II and his Queen Ketaladevi, and its main deity is Ishwara (another name for Shiva). The temple is stated to have taken 80 years to complete.

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This is a Shaiva trikuta (temple with three shrines). The temple is designed following a stellate plan (star-shaped) and is built on a raised platform, or jagati. It is famous for its figure sculptures and the bhava (expression) they all show.

The murti of all the three deities is missing, as are the superstructures.

To read about the Kedareshwara Temple, Halibedu in more detail, my follow-up blog on this temple is here.

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Near the Kedareshwara temple is the Jaina basadi (basti or complex). The Parshvanatha Temple is one of the larger temples in the complex. It comprises of an ardhamandapa (half hall) and a mahamandapa (large hall) and it was our next halt. The temple was built in 1133 CE by King Vishnuvardhan to celebrate the birth of his son, Narasimha I.

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While the temple is rather plain from the outside, they contain beautiful, lathe-turned pillars inside bear delicate carvings. The roof also sports intricate carvings. The idol here is 18 feet tall and is carved out of black stone and bears a 7-headed serpent on its head.

To read about the Parshvanatha Temple, Jain Basti, Halibedu in more detail, my follow-up blog on this temple is here.

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The next day we visited another of the notable Hoysala temples, the Chennakeshava Temple, Belur. The city was so revered by the Hoysalas that it is referred to as “earthly Vaikuntha” (Vishnu’s abode). Belur was the first capital city of the Hoysalas and the Chennakeshava temple complex was at the centre of the old walled town located on the banks of the Yagachi River. It was commissioned by King Vishnuvardhana in 1117 CE and took 103 years to complete.

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The temple is an ekakuta (temple with one shrine) and the garbha griha houses an enshrined image of Krishna (Chenna means beautiful whereas Kesava is another name of Krishna). The richly sculptured exterior of the temple includes sculptures and iconography and horizontal friezes covering the entire external walls.

The southern end of this main temple lies Kappechennigaraya, consecrated by the queen of Vishnuvardhan, Shantala, the same year. Besides the main shrine, there is a sub-shrine housing the image of Venugopal.

The same compound houses another temple named Viranarayan to the west of Chennakesava. It is an ekakuta, Vaishnava temple.

A stepped pond called Vasudev Tirtha was constructed to the northwest of Chennakesava.

To read about the Chennakeshava Temple, Belur in more detail, my follow-up blog on this temple is here.

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The next temple we visited was another exquisite one, though smaller than most others. It was another Chennakeshava Temple at Arakere.   Much plainer compared to most other Hoysala temples, this small shrine is nonetheless beautiful. This is a trikuta Vishnu temple built in the 13^th century. The three shrines house Vishnu as Chennakeshava in the west, Venugopal in the south and Lakshmi-Narasimha in the south.

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There is a single shikhara above the western shrine, which has a sukanasi in front of it. The outside walls have representations of the avatars of Vishnu with tall pilasters and single-pilaster turrets in between.

 Arakere is about 25 km north of Halibedu on the highway to Banavara on NH 73.

To read about the Chennakeshava Temple, Arakere in more detail, my follow-up blog on this temple is here.

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The Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, Javagal is a trikuta (three shrined) temple that you enter through a Vijayanagara era Mahadwar with elephants on either side. The temple, whose main deity is Narasimha (a form of Vishnu), was built in 1250 A.D. by the Hoysala Empire King Vira Someshwara.

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The presiding deity of this temple is Narasimha (a form of Visnu), half-man and half-lion who destroyed demon king Hiranyakashyap. On the left (south) is Venugopal (playing the flute) and on the right (north) Laxminarasimha with his consort Lakshmi.

The outer wall here fascinated me the most! It has stunning workmanship on it with carved sculptures but of a more relaxed character, when compared to other Hoysala temples. There are 140 wall panel images, each made with attention to fine details.

Javagal town is located about 50 km from Hassan.

To read about the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, Javagal in more detail, my follow up blog on the temple can be read here.

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Planning to visit these marvels of our heritage?

The journey to these amazing wonders of our heritage was beyond words. One could only wonder at the rich history trapped in these remote places. Unfortunately, these works of art have not been publicised much and remain relatively unknown even to most Indians. after seeing the unbelievably intricate craftsmanship of the monuments, one is inclined to question the basis of declaring a site as a World Heritage Site. While promoting India abroad through various channels, it is sad that these sites do not find any mention. 

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Do remember that to really grasp the enormity of the splendour in each of these temples, one should not plan to hurry through them but spend adequate time to make the journey fruitful. A good guide is recommended as it will otherwise be impossible to find one’s way around on your own.  

Do remember, all temples are surrounded by stone platforms and pathways and most are “living” temples, implying that one has to take off their footwear outside. It will be hot during summers to walk on stone!

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Note: All photographs displayed above are my exclusive property and copyright; their use is prohibited without explicit consent, in writing.